Expedition Nevados Alpamayo (5947 m) & Huascaran (6768 m)

The most beautiful mountain in the world and the highest peak of Peru

20 Days/19 Nights   June to August   Demanding

Highlights of the Cordillera Blanca. The highest tropical mountain range in the world, the Cordillera Blanca is part of the spectacular Andes that form the spine of South America. A mecca for hikers and outdoor enthusiasts, the region boasts over 50 peaks that exceed 15,000 feet, 700 glaciers and 300 lakes.

Trekking Santa Cruz: One of the most popular treks in the Cordillera Blanca, the hike around this subtropical mountain range passes through impressive landscapes of uncommonly beautiful mountains, frequent lakes and glaciers. The camps are some of the most spectacular in the world. This is a short and very popular hike with spectacular views of lakes and mountains.

For acclimatization, we begin with a day hike to Laguna (Lake) Churup, at 4,450m. The highest and most demanding pass on the Santa Cruz trek is Punta Union Pass (4750m).

About Alpamayo Peak: The pyramid shaped Alpamayo is considered one of the most beautiful mountains in the world. The ascent toward the peak is very steep and the majority of it is a technical climb. This mountain should only be attempted by those who are well acclimatized and who have summited of other high peaks. From one side Alpamayo is an almost perfect pyramid, covered with enormous ice shelves. The other face, the trapezoidal southwest wall, is even more beautiful. All of the Cordillera Blanca mountain range is protected by Huascarán National Park, a paradise of snowcapped peaks. The park also includes the peaks of Huandoy and Huascarán (the highest mountain in Peru), as well as 663 glaciers, 269 lakes, some 42 rivers, as well as 33 archaeological sites.

About Huascarán Peak: Huascarán is the highest peak in Peru. This mountain has two summits: Huascarán North (6655 m) and the main summit, Huascarán South (6768 m). Many climbers dream of reaching the high summit of 6768 meters. Huascarán offers multiple routes to arrive at the highest point in Peru. Technically, the climb is not difficult, nevertheless, due to its elevation and risk of avalanches, it is a serious endeavor.

Observation: Huascarán South Summit (6,768 m) The conditions on all mountains change every year; Huascarán is no exception. The glacier between the first and second camps is receding, and as such, some years it is a challenge to get from high camp 1 to high camp 2 due to the crevasses and the large avalanches that may fall in the primary chute. Nevertheless, an ascent of Huascarán is, without a doubt, one of the highlights of mountaineering in the Andes.

Travel Program


Itinerary:

Day 1: Flight from Europe to Lima. Overnight in the hotel
Day 2: Travel by bus to Huaraz (3100m). The trip is 400km and takes 8 hours
Day 3: Huaraz - Trekking to Laguna Wilcacoha (3725 m) - Camping in Cordillera Negra
Day 4: Laguna Wilcacoha - Trekking down to Huaraz, hotel
Day 5: Huaraz (3100 m) - Privat transport to Pitec (3850 m) - Trekking Hike to Laguna Churup (4450 m)
Day 6: Huaraz - Transfer drive about 3 Hours to village Cashapampa; meeting team and burros, trekking up to Llamacoral (3850 m)
Day 7: Llamacoral - Trekking to Base Camp of Alpamayo (4350 m)
Day 8: Alpamayo Base Camp - Ascend to Alpamayo Moraine Camp (4900 m)
Day 9: Moraine Camp - Ascend to Alpamayo High Camp (5300 m)
Day 10: High Camp - Ascend to Alpamayo Summit (5947 m) - High Camp (5300 m) or Descend to Base Camp (4300 m)
Day 11: Base Camp - Descent through Quebrada Santa Cruz - Cashapampa - Transfer to Huaraz
Day 12: Rest Day in Huaraz
Day 13: Huaraz - Transfer to Musho (3000 m) - Trekking to Huascarán Base Camp (4250 m)
Day 14: Base Camp Huascarán - Ascend to High Camp I (5350 m)
Day 15: High Camp I - Ascend to High Camp II (Garganta, 6000 m)
Day 16: High Camp II (Garganta, 6000 m) - Ascend to Huascarán Summit (6768 m) - Trekking descent to Base Camp
Day 17: Base Camp - Trekking to Musho (3000 m) - Transfer to Huaraz
Day 18: Transfer to the Anta Airport and 50 minute flight to Lima, or transfer to the bus terminal for the 8 hour ride to Lima. Transfer
Day 19: Stay in Lima - Transfer to the Airport
Day 20: Arrival in Europe or the country of origin

Detailed Program


Detailed Program

Day 1: Flight from Europe to Lima. Overnight in the hotel
Arrival in Lima - a large city with a population of approximately 11 million - the largest city in South America. Rest. If you wish, explore the city on your own. Overnight Hotel (-/-/-)

Day 2: Travel by bus to Huaraz (3100m). The trip is 400km and takes 8 hours
This ride follows the Pan American highway north across the impressive Pacific coastal desert. Continuing toward higher terrain, we pass through the Cordillera Negra (Black Range) at Conococha Pass (4020 m) into the Santa Valley and Huaraz (3100m.) Once across the pass, you’ll see a charming view of the mountains of the Cordillera Blanca, without a doubt some of the most impressive scenery in the world. You can also fly via LCPERU - flight duration 50 minutes. Overnight Hotel (B/-/-)

Day 3: Huaraz - Trekking to Laguna Wilcacoha (3725 m) - Camping in Cordillera Negra
For acclimatization we visit the Cordillera Negra, where you can see a magnificent view of the Cordillera Blanca. We’ll have a chance to see wild ducks on the beautiful lake. Wilcacocha, because of its location, is an exceptional viewpoint for the Cordillera Blanca, allowing us to identify peaks (from north to south) Huandoy, Huascarán, Chopicalqui, Hualcan, Copa,Vallunaraju, Ocshapalca, Ranrapalca, Palcaraju, Churup, and many more. Overnight Hotel (B/L/D)

Day 4: Laguna Wilcacoha - Trekking down to Huaraz, hotel
After our breakfast we return early to our hotel, lunch the whole group in the city of Huaraz. (B/-/-)

Day 5: Huaraz (3100 m) - Privat transport to Pitec (3850 m) - Trekking Hike to Laguna Churup (4450 m)
The trail to Laguna Churup is one of the classic hikes of the Cordillera Blanca, challenging but a great acclimatization route. We drive to the village of Llupa, and from there begin our hike on an ancient Inca trail to Laguna (Lake) Churup. The trail gets narrow and steep, including a small section with fixed ropes. It‘s one of the most beautiful places in this varied mountain region. Churup Peak rises above the lake, a wild rocky mountain with glaciers and cliffs 5,400 meters above sea level. Here we can continue climbing and do a loop to the Churup summit trail before returning to the trailhead and back to Huaraz for the night. Overnight Hotel (B/L/-)

Day 6: Huaraz - Transfer drive about 3 Hours to village Cashapampa; meeting team and burros, trekking up to Llamacoral (3850 m)
Huaraz Privat transfer drive about 3 Hours to village Cashapampa via valley of Santa river crossing villages Caraz, Yugay and Caraz; Starting the Trekking Santa Cruz; meeting team and burros, trekking up to Llamacoral (3850 m). Overnight Camp (-/L/D)

Day 7: Llamacoral - Trekking to Base Camp of Alpamayo (4350 m)
Camp Llamacoral - Trekking to Arhuaycocha (4300 m). With views of the peaks Alpamayo, Artesnorahu and Taulliraju. Night at the Base Camp of Alpamayo (4350 m). Overnight Camp (B/L/D)

Day 8: Alpamayo Base Camp - Ascend to Alpamayo Moraine Camp (4900 m)
Today we have a good breakfast and prepare the expedition equipment for Alpamayo, from here we begin using a local team (porters, cook and local guides), who will help us carry everything. We set out for the moraine after a small lunch in Base Camp. The trail takes us across the steep moraine at the tongue of the glacier to Moraine Camp (4,900 m).Overnight Camp (B/L/D)

Day 9: Moraine Camp - Ascend to Alpamayo High Camp (5300 m)
Alpamayo High Camp is on the steep glacier at the base of Alpamayo and Quitaraju. Due to the constant shrinkage of the glacier, every year we find a different situation along this section. We find magnificent views from High Camp the summit looks close enough to touch! We have dinner a bit early because we must rise very early, for the long day that awaits us tomorrow. High Camp (5,300 m). Overnight Camp (B/L/D)

Day 10: High Camp - Ascend to Alpamayo Summit (5947 m) - High Camp (5300 m) or Descend to Base Camp (4300 m)
Summit day! One possible route is the French route, a 60 to 80 degree wall of ice which narrows toward the top. . Above the wall, you need to conquer a few meters to the highest point of the narrow ridge. At the summit, you will be rewarded with a magnificent view of the Cordillera Blanca! The neighboring peak of Quitaraju (6,036 m) is almost within striking distance; and to the southwest you can see the remarkable summit of Huascarán (6,768 m.) After a brief rest and photos at the summit, we return quickly to High Camp via a rappel down the route we came up. In good weather, the climb to the summit and return to base camp can be done before noon. The ascent takes 5-6 hours, while the descent takes about 2-3 hours. If participants are tired, we can stay one more night in High Camp. If everyone feels fine, which is usual, we descend to Alpamayo Base Camp (4,300 m). Overnight Camp (B/L/D)

Day 11: Base Camp - Descent through Quebrada Santa Cruz - Cashapampa - Transfer to Huaraz
Today we rise early in order to begin our hike, descending through the Santa Cruz valley to Cashapampa (about 6 hours.) In this village our minibus awaits to take us and the local expedition team back to Huaraz. Lodging at the hotel.Overnight Hotel (B/L/-)

Day 12: Rest Day in Huaraz
Rest day in Huaraz. Optional: Rock climbing at the walls of Chancas. A classic location for many rock climbing enthusiasts. This area is 40 minutes north of Huaraz. It was developed thanks to the guides of Don Bosco in the Andes (a non-profit organization dedicated to developing tourism) in 1997. It has 8 developed routes of different difficulties. It is a good place to spend a quiet day in nature and then visit the local hot springs to relax aching muscles. Overnight Hotel (B/-/-)

Day 13: Huaraz - Transfer to Musho (3000 m) - Trekking to Huascarán Base Camp (4250 m)
Now the last and best mountain - the highest mountain in Peru, Huascarán. Transfer from Huaraz through the Callejón de Huaylas, the central section of the valley formed by the Santa River between the Cordillera Blanca and the Cordillera Negra. We arrive at the village of Musho, and load our luggage onto burros. From Musho it is a 4-5 hour hike to Huascarán Base Camp (4,250 m), from which we have a beautiful view of the Cordillera Negra. Overnight Camp (B/L/D)

Day 14: Base Camp Huascarán - Ascend to High Camp I (5350 m)
Today we‘ll climb to High Camp 1. Porters will help us carry our camping equipment and food . From this point, the southern and northern peaks of Huascarán seem close enough to touch. Dinner and lodging in tents on the glacier. At this altitude, the temperature at night falls to as low as -13°C. Overnight Camp (B/L/D)

Day 15: High Camp I - Ascend to High Camp II (Garganta, 6000 m)
Very early this morning we continue to climb over the steep section of the glacier, with crevasses, avalanches in the chutes, and an area of icefall with 50° faces requiring ice climbing. We expect to find changes to the rugged glacier because every year with the retreat of the glacier, the conditions change with regard to crevasses, bridges or new avalanches. Our porters accompany us to Camp 2 in La Garganta (“The Throat“), the saddle between the North Summit (6655 m) and the South Summit (6768 m.) We sleep in tents on the glacier. Overnight Camp (B/L/D)

Day 16: High Camp II (Garganta, 6000 m) - Ascend to Huascarán Summit (6768 m) - Trekking descent to Base Camp
Summit day! We begin our ascent very early this morning to the South Summit (6768 m) The trail takes us abruptly up, continues through many crevasses and avalanche zones until we arrive at the flat summit ridge. From here you can see all of the Cordillera Blanca, including Alpamayo to the north. The unforgettable view from the summit makes us forget all our effort to get here! After enjoying the summit and taking photos, we begin our descent back to High Camp II. If everyone still feels fine, we can descend to Base Camp (weather permitting) or stay in High Camp II. Rest one hour and begin to go down to Base Camp. Dinner and lodging in Base Camp. Time required: the ascent: 6-7 hours; descent to High Camp II: 3-4 hours; descent from High Camp II to Base Camp: 3-4 hours. Overnight Campl (B/L/D)

Day 17: Base Camp - Trekking to Musho (3000 m) - Transfer to Huaraz
Our last expedition day. Early in the morning the mule/burro drivers arrive, and after the luggage is loaded, we descend to the village of Musho, a walk of 3-4 hours. From here our private transport will be waiting to take us to Huaraz, our final destination. Here we say goodbye to our local team; have a complimentary dinner at the home of Juventino Albino Caldua - a special dish called Pachamanca. Lodging in the hotel. Overnight Hotel (B/L/-)

Day 18: Transfer to the Anta Airport and 50 minute flight to Lima, or transfer to the bus terminal for the 8 hour ride to Lima. Transfer to the hotel
Options: Flight or bus. Flights are via LC-Peru and last 50 minutes. Overnight Hotel (B/-/-)

Day 19: Stay in Lima - Transfer to the Airport
Arrival in USA or Austria, Switzerland,Germany, etc. Overnight flight (B/-/-)

Day 20: Arrival in Europe or the country of origin
Arrival in USA or Austria, Switzerland,Germany, etc. Overnight Home (-/-/-)

Included meals: B=breakfast; L=lunch; D=dinner

What’s included


What's included

Services included in the prices:
  • Acclimatization Tour
  • Peruvian qualified and experienced local guide/s
  • Entrance fees to the Huascaran National Park
  • Cooks and helpers
  • All meals during the tour
  • Donkey driver and donkeys
  • Camping tents (2 persons)
  • Porters for Nevados Alpamayo and Huascaran
  • Kitchen equipment
  • Transportation as tour schedule / Huaraz
  • Pick up at the airport in Lima to the Hotel
  • Transfer from the Hotel to the airport and bus station
  • Transport public bus or Domestic flight Airline LC-Peru
  • Hotel Kamana 2 nights in Lima or other hotel
  • Hotel Casa Blanca 6 nights in Huaraz or other hotel

Not Included:
  • International flights to Lima / Peru round trip
  • Transfer from the airport for bookings of individual flights with different times of arrival / departure
  • Exit tax at the airport in Lima
  • Travel accident and health insurance
  • Luggage insurance and trip cancellation
  • Meals in restaurants in Lima and Huaraz
  • Personal expenses
  • Personal equipment (such as boots, ice ax, crampons, harness, sleeping bag, mat, Goretex, etc.)
  • Tips

Prices & Dates


Tour Information:

Season: June to August
Difficulty: Demanding

Dates & Prices:

More information about dates and prices upon request.

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Detailprogramm-Peru [DOC/PDF] 2024
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Expedition Nevados Alpamayo & Huascaran Expedition Nevados Alpamayo & Huascaran Expedition Nevados Alpamayo & Huascaran Expedition Nevados Alpamayo & Huascaran Expedition Nevados Alpamayo & Huascaran Expedition Nevados Alpamayo & Huascaran

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Eric Albino
Eric Albino Lliuya
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